Buying a Car Privately: The Paperwork You Actually Need

By Matthew Croxford · 9 Oct 2026 · Updated 20 Oct 2026

Short answer: You need the V5C logbook, checked against the seller's details and the car's VIN, plus the green new keeper slip handed over at sale. Add service history, invoices, MOT certificates, both keys and ideally a written bill of sale. Run a free reg check and a paid vehicle history check beforehand, and tax the car yourself before driving it.

Buying a car privately can save you a decent chunk of money compared with a dealer forecourt, but you lose the dealer's paperwork trail along with it. There's no finance house chasing up outstanding settlement figures and no sales manager double-checking the logbook before you arrive. It's down to you. Get the paperwork when buying a car privately right and the whole transaction is straightforward. Get it wrong and you could end up with a car you can't tax, can't insure properly, or that turns out to belong to someone else entirely.

This isn't about reading the small print for the sake of it. Every document in this guide exists to answer one of two questions: is this car what the seller says it is, and will you be able to prove you own it the moment you drive away? Here's what to ask for, in the order it actually matters.

Before you even view the car

Do your homework before you set foot anywhere near the vehicle. A quick reg plate search takes a couple of minutes and can save you a wasted journey.

Run a free check first

Our free reg check gives you the car's full MOT history including every test result, advisory and failure reason, its official DVLA vehicle details, and any outstanding safety recalls, plus a market valuation to help you judge whether the asking price is realistic. It's free, it takes seconds, and there's no reason not to do it before you arrange a viewing.

Order a vehicle history check

The free check won't tell you whether the car has outstanding finance against it, whether it's been recorded as an insurance write-off or stolen, who the previous keepers were, or whether it's been imported, exported or scrapped. For that you need a proper vehicle history check, with data provided by Experian. It costs a small fee, but it's considerably cheaper than discovering after the fact that you've bought a car still owned by a finance company.

The V5C logbook, and what to check on it

The V5C, officially the vehicle registration certificate, is the single most important document in a private sale. It's issued by the DVLA and records the registered keeper, not necessarily the legal owner, so treat it as a starting point rather than final proof.

What to look for

The name and address on the V5C should match the person selling the car and the address where you're viewing it. If they don't match, ask why, and be cautious if the answer doesn't stack up.
Check the vehicle identification number (VIN) on the V5C against the VIN plate on the car itself. They must match exactly.
Check the make, model, colour and first registration date against the actual vehicle and against the online listing.
If the seller only has a photo of the V5C, or no V5C at all, treat that as a serious warning sign rather than a minor inconvenience.

The green new keeper slip (V5C/2)

At the point of sale, the seller tears off section 6 of the V5C, known as the green new keeper slip or V5C/2, and hands it to you. This is your temporary proof that you're the new keeper while the DVLA processes the change and posts out a full V5C in your name. Keep it safe until the new logbook arrives.

Notifying the DVLA and taxing the car

Telling the DVLA about the change of keeper is legally the seller's job, done online at the government's sold or bought a vehicle service or by post. As the buyer, your responsibility is different but equally important: you must tax the vehicle, or declare it off the road with a SORN, before you drive it anywhere.

You must tax a vehicle you've bought before you drive it, or declare it off the road (a SORN). The tax is not transferred to you when you buy the vehicle. That's worth repeating: road tax never transfers with the car, whatever the seller tells you about months left on it. It's a legal obligation on you as the new keeper, not something to factor into your view of whether the car is worth buying.

If there's no V5C at all

Buying a car with no logbook is legal, but it's awkward and it's a genuine risk signal. You'd need to apply for a replacement using form V62, and the DVLA charges a fee for this. It's far better to insist the seller sorts out a replacement V5C before you hand over any money.

Service history, invoices and other supporting paperwork

Beyond the official registration documents, ask for everything that backs up the car's story.

Service book and invoices, ideally from a garage rather than handwritten entries with no paper trail behind them.
Recent MOT certificates, which you can cross-reference against the free MOT history from our reg lookup tool.
Receipts for major work, such as a replacement clutch, cambelt or any significant repair.
Both sets of keys. A single key isn't a paperwork issue exactly, but it's a cost you'll want to factor into your offer.

A written receipt or bill of sale

There's no legal requirement for a formal bill of sale in a private car purchase, but it's sensible protection for both parties. A simple document noting the registration, make and model, mileage at the time of sale, agreed price, date, and both your names and signatures, is enough to avoid any later dispute about what was agreed.

What to do once you've paid and driven off

With the money handed over and the green slip in your pocket, there's a short to-do list left.

Arrange insurance before you drive, not after. You cannot legally drive the car without it, regardless of whether you have the V5C sorted.
Tax the vehicle using the reference number on the green new keeper slip.
Keep the green slip safe until your full V5C arrives in the post. If it doesn't turn up within a reasonable time, you can apply for one yourself.
Note the next MOT due date so you're not caught out later.

If you're weighing up whether to buy privately or go through a dealer instead, it's worth knowing that buying through a dealer or the MotifyMe marketplace also opens up the option of spreading the cost through car finance, subject to status and affordability, which simply isn't available on a private sale. For more on getting a used car right from start to finish, our guides cover everything from valuations to running costs.

The short version

Run the free checks before you view, insist on seeing the V5C and matching it to the seller and the car, get a proper vehicle history check if there's any doubt about finance or write-off status, keep the green slip safe, and tax the car the moment you own it. None of this takes long, and all of it is far less hassle than untangling a problem after the fact.

Fees and processing times for DVLA services such as a replacement logbook can change, so always check the current figures on GOV.UK before you rely on them. Our valuation is a market guide only and will vary with the car's condition, mileage and the wider second-hand market.

Frequently asked questions

Does road tax transfer when you buy a car privately? No. Road tax never transfers with the car, whatever the seller tells you about months left on it. You must tax it yourself, or declare a SORN, before driving it.

What if the seller has no V5C logbook for the car? Buying a car with no logbook is legal but awkward and a genuine risk signal. You would need to apply for a replacement using form V62, and the DVLA charges a fee for this.

What is the green new keeper slip and why does it matter? It is section 6 of the V5C, torn off and given to you at sale, known as the V5C/2. It is your temporary proof of keepership while the DVLA processes the change, so keep it safe until your full V5C arrives.

What does a free reg check not tell you compared with a paid vehicle history check? The free check won't reveal outstanding finance, whether the car is an insurance write-off or stolen, previous keepers, or import, export or scrap status. A proper history check, using data provided by Experian, covers this for a small fee.